Restaurants

What do Jay Z & Beyonce, Anna Wintour, Twitter creator Jack Dorsey and designer Chris Benz and myself have in common? Hint: Not recession-proof bank accounts. We’ve all patroned the Standard Grill since it opened it’s doors to the public almost a month ago. Well, us and thousands of others. Highline Park and the emergence of sunshine mobilized New Yorkers and tourists alike to the Meat Packing just in time to try the new Standard’s Standard Grill. Of course, I didn’t see any of them when I was there, but hey, they didn’t see me either.

Before writing this review, I browsed through some Yelp reviews to measure my opinion with those of other diners. I found the usual mixture of disses and praises, but thought the reviewers missed a key element of dining at…well, of dining in general. Like writers have to know their audiences, food critics have to know their atmosphere. Gotham is chock full of restaurants with medium food but a great setting. While you may not love Tao, you know the ambiance is your best bet for say, a bachelorette party. While I sought to review the food at Standard Grill, I also, almost equally, sought to measure the environment.

And the floor is tiled with pennies! The Standard Grill found a useful, um, use for America’s most confusing currency. Okay, so they weren’t the first. (The Paul Smith store in Paris has currency tiled walls and apparently some courthouse in Tuscon cashed in on the penny idea several years ago.) But it looks cool. In combo with the vaulted beamed ceilings and cushy red banquets, the Grill’s dining room is nice. As are the patrons – understated trendy and lively, the dining room and adjacent white bar room are packed from 7 to 9 or later, so if you aim dine in peace go early or eat late.
Chef Dan Silverman cooks a mean roast chicken as well as lamb chops and Steak Frites. I’m from the Midwest, and you know I’m choosy about my steak, but the steak at Standard Grill is actually delicious, cook beautifully and only slightly flavored. All Standard Grill’s meat is locally grown (plus) and prices hover around the low 20’s (plus, plus). The duck fat smashed potatoes are also amazing, if slightly bad for your figure. And the charred octopus is DELICIOUS. It may be one of the best octopus dishes I’ve had. Some friends had the trout, which was flaky and tender and came with pine nuts and currants, which sounds weird, but really worked. For dessert I had the humble pie (rhubarb and chocolate) with vanilla ice cream.

I’m not saying the Standard Grill deserves four stars for amazing cuisine – except the octopus – but it is reasonably priced, fun and has a great outdoor seating area.  I think it’s a worth a visit as the ambiance makes for a fun night any day of the week and the patron’s maintain The Standard Hotel’s measure for cool…meaning it’s cool. We may need that if this summer ever heats up.

The Standard Grill  open for breakfast 7a.m. to 11a.m and dinner from 5:30 seven days a week, located on the corner of Washington and West 13th Street; 212-645-4100

Emma Dinzebach

The unusually cool weather made June feel like May and now suddenly, it’s the 4th of July. Woot! Woot! What to eat? Lucky for us this city is full of inexpensive American eats that both epitomize and obscure traditional American food. This means burgers, beers, dawgs, brats and BBQ all reinvented and retained for your palate’s pleasure. But this weekend you need to go all out and have a few (or many) friends to feed. Unsure where to do each? That’s what menupages is for people, but we’ll tell you which neighborhood joint is worth the trip out of your hood.

Daisy May’s BBQ – Sure the commercials are queer, but hailing from St. Louis, I can say this is the best BBQ in the city. No offense to Danny Meyer, but Daisy May’s realizes that there is some smothering involved in BBQ, and since they aren’t competing for presentation, they can smother away. If you only go once a year get a pulled pork sandwich or the Kansas City sweet and sticky pork ribs – a messy mixture of ketchupy barbecue sauce and sweet tang.

For those planning on serving a large party (6 or more), there is a catering menu and the staff are more than helpful. Here you can order whole hogs and pork butts. The whole hogs are straight up terrifying, and no, it isn’t necessary for them to leave the squeal-stoned heads on, but they do. So get a brave friend to slice her up, and keep away from small children. I’d get the pork butt. I realize it says butt and therefore sounds sickening, but it’s delicious and much easier to manage than the whole hog.  And yes, I’ve had both. I told you, I’m from the Midwest!

But the real winners at Daisy May’s are the sides. I don’t like the cole slaw because it’s too mayonnaisey for me, but the creamed corn, creamed spinach, baked beans with burnt ends and brown sugar sweet potatoes are delicious. Actually, delicious understates how good the brown sugar sweet potatoes are. They are to die for.  Lastly, this is NOT health food people, so plan on spending the next couple days working it off.

From The Vogue City to you, have a happy and safe Independence Day New York.

623 East 11th at 46th Street  212.977.1500

Can’t get to Hell’s Kitchen? Visit them on the web at www.daisymays.com for city-wide push cart locations. 

Hell we can’t afford to eat out anymore, so we’re taking our happy hour to a new level. Seal level that is. Since 1989, Lightship #115 AKA Frying Pan has made her home at Chelsea’s Pier 66. Becoming a Manhattan hot spot is a storybook ending for this ship who sunk in the late 70’s and lived underwater for three years before being raised by saintly saviors, sold to her present owners and made into a vessel for NYC tours and entertainment.

Um, we were entertained, so entertained in fact that we’re skipping DBGB’s and heading west to the waterfront tiki bar, which serves cold beer, better-than-average burgers and delicious garlic fries. Not convinced? Let me clarify, the whole vessel is a nightlife smorgasbord from the front quarter’s effervescent DJ lounge to live acts in the ship’s belly. New York Magazine described the dated couches and “ratty make-out couches.” Hm, well there are an abnormal amount of make-out nooks. Although I thought the couches were meant to signify male ownership of the jack. A woman would never want to make-out on something described as “ratty.” If it’s nice though, skip (no pun intended) the lounge and plant yourself on one of the deck’s plastic chairs for gorgeous views of the Hudson and a quixotic sunset.

Saturday and Sunday afternoons on the Frying Pan are a great time to unleash your inner swashbuckler. With patrons singing and scary bathroom trips two floors down (go with a friend), a weekend at Frying Pan is one to remember. Or not…depending on how much you drink. Warning: patrons take the nod to seafaring a bit serious and after many Bucket-O-Beers can get rowdy. As far as we can tell, there are few regulations and accidents do happen. (Our friend slipped and sprained her wrist.) In other words, be careful!

Frying Pan Pier 66, North River  W. 26th Street & West Side Highway  212-989-6363

So directly opposite from Piadina is a slightly larger (bi-level) but still intimate tapas restaurant called Alta. Again, desecend a couple stairs, yet this time find yourself greeted by a cellar-style bar with A-M-A-Z-I-N-G sangria. Yum. I had to wait a minute for my large party (another birthday) to arrive and while doing so realized that I too had once arranged a dinner party here. It was a blizzard out and we were the only people crazy enough to brave the elements. That was a younger, more naive me. Sigh.

Oh, our table is ready. If it were my birthday I would not want to be seated in this table directly next to the host/serving stand. Not to mention that they sat two people on one side, three people on another and one on the end.  Asymmetry semi-repulses me. Just south of the first mini dining area is an enchanted room furnished with the same wooden tables, but look up – greenery adorns the balcony railing…very Lord of the Ringsy. If you are on a date, judge him (or her) by where you sit as second level, railside is the only way to go.

We sat down at our table and after failing to bring the entire party menus – I had to reach behind me and get them myself! – the bus boy proceeded to spill six glasses of water on the birthday girl. Poor Essie. Luckily she’s a good sport. They brought us six drinks to make up for it, but never adequately replaced las aguas. AND I thought they should’ve asked us what we wanted rather than just making us these fruit punchy drinks because I certainly wouldn’t have chosen that. I WANTED SANGRIA.

Onto the food: It was delicious – however, like the agua, sporadically served. Dietary restrictions of several guests at our table forced us to try basically everything on the menu. The crab canonlini and the lamb meatballs were yums. The date/gorgonzola dealie (center) was so so. I loved the tuna tartare, but I always do. The cheese plate was good and had this peanut buttery spread, which I was informed were not peanuts, but tasted like peanuts, that pleased my palate. The service: Shoddy at best even though the maitre’d took such a liking to me that he insisted on escorting me to the door of the ladies room. “Upstairs, take a left, first door on the right,” would’ve done just fine thankyouverymuch.

Alta    64 West 10th Street, near 6th Avenue; 212-505-7777; Dinner Daily